Monday, April 30, 2012

Ho Chi Minh City: Coffee Culture Coffee ShiOk 胡志明市:咖啡文化, 咖啡 ShiOK

Coffee was first introduced to Vietnam in 1857 by the French. By the late 1990's, Vietnam has emerged as the world's SECOND coffee producer and exporter (after Brazil) accounting for 14.3% of the market share.

Drinking coffee is part of Vietnamese culture. Ho Chi Minh city has a vibrant coffee culture. There're many coffee shops with different themes; from humble street coffee shops to popular coffee chains like Trung Nguyen and Highland Coffee.

A local style coffee cafe is where you sip coffee, soak up the rhythms of the street and chat through the passage of time on mini tables and mini chairs.

The most expensiove coffee in the world - 'Weasel coffee' is an english translation of its Vietnamese name cà phê (coffee) Chồn (weasel) 

The weasels sniff and eat the best and juiciest coffee berries. Their digestive enzymes ferment the beans and break down the proteins in about 36 hours before it defecate. The weasels' undigested coffee beans droppings remained intact, are then collected, thoroughly washed, sun dried and roasted at over 350 degrees. 

During French colonialism in Vietnam, the French built large coffee plantations and the farmers were forbidden from taking the harvested beans, so the farmers scavenged for the weasel droppings to make their own roasts, thus the cà phê Chồn

Buon Ma Thuot in Vietnam is ONE of the only two coffee-growing regions in the world where 100% AUTHENTIC weasel coffee is produced. Remarkably different from others due to its distinctive aroma and chocolaty taste, their non-meat diet weasels (which only eat fruits) and the region's rich mineral basaltic soil. Buon Ma Thout's weasel coffee is truly superior, famed as "King of Coffee" making it "The finest gift from Vietnam".

The final cup delivers a buttery smooth, rich distinctive aromatic taste, stronger but, Less bitter than typical coffee with a hint of chocolate texture. Overall, a long lasting taste sensation. (lasting 2-3 hours after having a cup)

*Hot weasel coffee = VD 30,000/RM4.80
About 20% of the coffee produced in the world is Robusta. Vietnam is the world's LARGEST producer/exporter of robusta coffee. Nearly all coffee grown in Vietnam is of the Robusta variety due to its geographical, climate and elevation suitability.

Robusta make strong, full bodied, bitter coffee with an earthy flavour and has twice as much caffeine as arabica. For those who like their coffee with a KiCk!

One taste of the coffee and I became an instant fan... Very Robustic!! Iced Robusta was my order of the drink during my entire stay in Vietnam!!

*Iced Robusta =VND 32,000/RM4.70 
The Culi is made from hand selected pea berries (Culi in Vietnamese) and hand roasted in a traditional manner for a truly authentic taste which has a haunting aftertaste that commands for a second cup. Culi are highly prized for their intensity of flavour. The very best Culi beans are from the mountainous Lam Dong region of Vietnam.  

"Intense bitter taste, passionate scents... and my mind mingles...."

*Hot culi = VND 40,000/RM5.80
Moka is Vietnam's premium arabica coffee which is rare and exotic. The catimor, a variety of the aromatic arabica is naturally bitter with a strong flavour. High quality moka catimor are from the highlands of Lam Dong region.

Fans of strong coffee will like the eXtra KiCk a catimor provides. *Hot Moka Catimor = VD52,000/RM7.60.

Fresh coffee beans, grounded and instant coffee can be purchased at the cafe too. The waitress remembered what you have drank and pointed the beans to you!!  Free smell of the coffee beans if you like.

When in Vietnam, DO immerse in their unique coffee culture. Before leaving Vietnam, BUY some authentic Vietnamese coffee.Make a brew and indulge in Vietnam's BEST known Secret. Soon, you'll find yourself addiCted... 

NOTE:
FREE flow of tea is provided for all customers who ordered their coffee (or not). 

(In Vietnam a cup of coffee is always accompanied by a cup of hot or iced tea.)

*Prices are from Cafe VY, (behind New World Saigon Hotel)
No. 277E, Le Thanh Ton, Ben Thanh Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. 

Monday, April 23, 2012

Ho Chi Minh City: Frenzy Frenchy 法国式的胡志明市

On 1st September 1858, under the orders of Napoleon III, the French bombarded and occupied the Vietnamese port of Tourane (Da Nang). Sailing south, Saigon was captured on 18th February 1859.

It was after World War II in 1945 that the Vietnamese forces launched several large scale attacks on the French forces. Finally defeated them at the Battle of Dien Bien Phu on 8th May 1954. Their defeat brought an end to the French rule in Vietnam.

Saigon was the capital of CohinChina (french colony of southern vietnam) from 1867 -1902 and later of the independent state of South Vietnam from 1955-1975. On 2nd july 1976, it was officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City although Saigon is still commonly used.

The French's colonization marked a milestone in the history of Ho Chi Minh City that had earned the distinction of being named "Paris of the Orient". And its French colonial charm still remains and the legacy is now enjoy a Renaissance as the city's top tourist attractions. Ho Chi Minh City's list of French colonial masterpieces in chronological order:

Notre Dame Cathedral
Designed by a French architect, J. Bourad. Built between the years of 1877-1883 to establish a community and to provide religious service for the French colonists. All building materials for this Neo-Romanesque church were imported from France which included red bricks from Marseilles and stained glass windows from Chartres with a total cost of 2,500,000 French Francs (at that time price). It was called State Cathedral.

In 1895, two 190ft bell towers were added with six bronze bells. On 16th February 1959, then- Bishop of Saigon Joseph Pham Van Thien installed the statue of Our Lady of Peace, made of granite, ordered specially from Rome. The cathedral was since then called Notre-Dame Cathedral. 

Address: Han Thuyen Street, NE of the Reunification Palace
Open: Mon-Fri 8am-6pm (Tourist Service Mass: sunday 9:30am)


Hotel Continental Saigon
The first hotel in Vietnam, built in 1878 by Pierre Cazeau with the purpose to provide a French style of luxurious accomodation for French travelers. It was completed in 1880 and was named after the Hotel Continental in Paris.

The building remained unchanged and is carefully conserved to maintain its original architecture and French style of high ceilings, spacious rooms and large corridors. It has been featured in Hollywood movies "The Quiet American" and "Indonchine".

Address: 132-134 Dong Khoi Street, District 1, HCMC

Saigon Central Post Office
Built in 1886-1891, designed by Gustave Eiffel that resembles famous European buildings such as Paris' Les Halles or Milan's Galleria of the 19th century.

The central pavilion, with a huge clock and symmetrical extensions on both sides, adds to its beauty. Its giant interior still retains traces of the colonial past especially the 18th century vintage maps of Vietnam and Saigon on the side of the chamber. There is a giant portrait of Ho Chi Minh on the far end of the chamber. 

Its the biggest post office of Vietnam and is still a working post office, where you can buy souvenirs, postcards, stamps, send mails, use the ATM and telephones. Foreign money exchange is also available. 
   
Address: 2 Cong Xa Paris, District 1, HCMC (beside Notre Dame Cathedral)
Opening Hours: 7am to 8pm

Saigon Opera House 
Built in 1897, with similar designs to Petit Palais in Paris, the building was constructed under French architects, Ernest Guichard and Eugene Ferret as a classical opera house to entertain the French colonists. All planning and building materials were imported from France. It was named The Municipal Theatre. Notable changes through the years:

1944 - Was badly damaged, so the theatre stop functioning. 
1954 - A refugee shelter for French civilians after Vietnam was split into two halves.
1955 - Restored for the Lower House assembly of South Vietnam.
1975 - Functioned to its original purpose of use.
1998 - Restored by the municipal government with extensive renovations.

Today, Saigon Opera house becomes a theatre for a variety of performances - western classical, Vietnamese traditional, schools as well as other special events in three storey with a seating capacity of 1,800 people.

Address: At the intersection of Le Loi and Dong Khoi Street, District 1, HCMC.
Open: hours vary according to performance


Ho Chi Minh City People's Committee 
Designed by a famous French architect, Gardes. Built in 1902-1908 as Hotel de Ville de Saigon based on the original Hotel de Ville in Paris in charming cream and yellow hue colour. It was renamed as Ho Chi Minh City People's Committee in 1975 as being an official Vietnamese government building. 

An iconic statue of Ho Chi Minh in a lovely park is a symbol of Saigon. The park is a good spot for people watching and the building looks great at night; when the lights come on after sunset - like a majestic castle in the dark.

Address: 86 Le Thanh Ton Street, District 1, HCMC
Open: Daily (not open to public, view from exterior only)


Ben Thanh Market
Built in 1912-1914 to replace the old market (Les Halles Centrales) formed by street vendors near Saigon river which was destroyed by fire in 1870. The market was again heavily destroyed during World War II and was given a ravamp in 1950.  Although major  renovation took place from 1975-1985, the landmark symbol clock tower on the main entrance remained unchanged.

Ho Chi Minh city's most famous market where you can find almost everything with hundreds of stalls and vendors that quote a 50-100% higher prices to tourists. Take note that vendors are super sales experts and are armed with multilingual skills whereby you may end up holding the wolf by the ears.

Address: In the heart of District 1, HCMC
Open: Daily 6am-6pm (Daily Night market outside Ben Thanh: 7pm-12am)

The Rex Hotel
Built in 1927, as a two-storey auto dealership/garage complex named Bainier Auto Hall for european cars. Notable changes through the years from a auto hall to a five storey, 157 roomed famous luxury and business five star hotel:

1959 - Purchased by a Vietanamese couple who rebranded it as Rex Complex Hotel.   
1975 - Saigon Tourist Bureau took ownership and renamed Ben Thanh Hotel.
1986 - Was renamed The Rex Hotel.
Address: 141 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, District 1, HCMC.

Apart from the precious architecture heritage, the 95 years of French colonization has also created a great influence in Vietnam's food and social culture such as:


Baguette
The French bread is single serve, torpedo shaped, golden crusty and crunchy on the outside and airy cotton soft on the inside. Baguettes are sold almost every where or as baguette sandwich as well as other french pastries.

Coffee Culture
Coffee has become a major source of revenue for Vietnam and Vietnamese life's pleasure. Coffee culture not only lies in the drink but in the cafes. A classic French with a little Vietnamses twist.

All things coffee - beans, grounded, instant, filter kit are pretty much everywhere and you are never far from a cup of coffee or coffee aroma.



Friday, April 20, 2012

Ho Chi Minh City: Street Madness 胡志明市精彩的街道

The Socialist Republic of Vietnam has a population of 89 million* people. Ho Chi Minh city or SaigOn is the largest city in Vietnam with an estimated population of 10 million* people, 6 million* motorbikes AND with fewer than 800 traffic enforcement police on duty!!  (* as in Feb 2012.)

If you come from a city with well-organized traffic system, the streets of Ho Chi Minh city will ShoCk Your Life. It may sound silly, but watching the traffic flow may be ONE of the entertaining thing to do.

Buses, coaches, trucks, vans, cars, taxis, SUVs, MPVs, bicycles, motorbikes, cyclos, motorized/pedaled tri-carts formed a kind of organized street madness!! Rather than the chaos you'd expect, everything seems to flow harmoniously accompanied by an entire "Symphony of HOnks".

Once you're in Ho Chi Minh city, your first orientation is 'How to cross the street without being Hit!' - particularly by a motorbike steering and swerving to avoid other motorbikes as well as pedestrians.

Crossing the street is really a challenge as motorbikes dart in and out of nowhere, whizzing by extremely close, weaving around you while trying not to Hit you.

Zebra Crossing does not work here.. You need a Leap of Faith to wade in and walk slowly but steadily to get across safely.

Stranded in the middle of the street is not only common but what most tourists had -  A Scary FuN..

Posing in the middle of the street is not only adventurous but what most tourists will preserve 
A Lasting Memory

Look out for Train* Crossing too!! 
*The Reunification Express Vietnam

Bikers who are rushing for time or avoiding traffic lights will ride up the pavement, creating a precarious situation for pedestrians.

Traffic Police's headache during Rush Hour. (7-9am and 5-7pm) Take note if you have to be on the road for an appointment or to the airport.

Fell of his bike. No Big deal. No Big Fuss. 
Got his bike up and off with his journey again.



NOTE: ROAD SAFETY IN VIETNAM
The two most dangerous activities in Vietnam are crossing the streets and driving/riding in traffic. The road system throughout Vietnam is chaotic, and traffic laws are being ignored. Always be on an ALERT. 

HOW TO CROSS A STREET IN VIETNAM?
Look for a gap in the traffic, step in, move in a slow and steady pace while watching out for incoming traffic of any kind of vehicles. If you sense danger, STOP. If not, keep walking slowly. You can also raise your hand lower than your shoulder to signal that you are crossing.

NOTE that Zebra crossing DOES NOT work. Nobody is going to stop for you no matter how long you've waited and no matter who you are!

Motorbike riders will try to maneuver their ways to avoid you. If you hear a beep, it's likely a motorbike rider is entering your space quite close. If crossing the street seems to be a mission impossible, stand beside a local and cross with them!

If you get across the street successfully (unhurt), you have WON yourself  
"A Deadly ChallenGe in VietNam!!"

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Ho Chi Minh City: Views From the Sky 胡志明市天空景色

The most practical way to make flying more enjoyable is to sit by the window. It's the steady, lyrical motion of a silvery wing over a new place - an entirely unique geography and history that appear simply and perfectly beneath You.

However, sometimes scenes out of the plane window seem spectacular to the eyes but not on pictures which may seems a little empty and un-inspirational. Nevertheless, it still remain my interest to gaze out of the window with my camera ready on standby.

Luck was on my side that the weather was clear, making it possible to take some great aerial shots of Ho Chi Minh city on my twO visits from different sides of the plane. 

Views from Left side window Lion Air  JT150  
Singapore to Ho Chi Minh City, Saturday 19th March 2011.










Views from Right side window Air Asia AK 880 
Kuala Lumpur to Ho Chi Minh City, Monday 17th April 2012




NOTE:
The next time you fly to Ho Chi Minh city, remember to pick a window seat of your choice.  Left side for river views or Right side for city views.  

USEFUL TIPS: 

Do Malaysian passport holders need a visa to Vietnam?
As a part of ASEAN, Malaysia citizens are exempt from Vietnam visa for 30 days. For stay of more than 30 days, Malaysian citizens may have 2 options:
1. Visit Vietnam Embassy in Malaysia.
2. Apply for a visa on arrival to Vietnam from Malaysia online. 

Malaysian citizens may apply for both TOURIST and BUSINESS Visa to Vietnam for the stay of 1 to 6 months from Malaysia. 

New Rules on Arrival/Departure Card in Vietnam
The Vietnam Immigration Department under the Ministry of Police has implemented a new rule effective, September 15th, 2010. The Arrival/Departure Card will no longer be required when entering/departing any International Airports in Vietnam. This applies to both foreigners and Vietnamese. 

Visas on arrival are not valid for border crossings and the official stamp can only be obtained at the three international airports. Travellers arriving by land from Cambodia, Laos or China MUST be in possession of a full visa when they arrive at the border.
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