Tobacco Fields of Anyar, Java 印尼爪哇 AnYar 煙草園

Tobacco was introduced into Indonesia by the Dutch colonists. The climatic condition and fertile soil were perfect for tobacco cultivation, especially in East Java. Today, it is a major commodity in the Indonesian economy and ranked Indonesia as the seventh largest tobacco producer in the world. 

Like other agricultural crops, tobacco is grown from seeds scattered onto the soil. Tobacco is planted only once a year - April or May and harvested in July to September. After that, it will be replaced by other cash crops like rice and corn.

One of the peaceful village in Kota Anyar

We made a visit to the tobacco fields in Kota Anyar - a village town, about 2km from Paiton where tobacco is planted and harvested using traditional methods for generations. 

In the middle of lush green tobacco fields

Bordered by mist capped mountains, fringed by green valleys 

It takes about 80-90 days before a fully grown tobacco plant is ready for harvest. They are planted a few weeks apart so harvesting is spread out throughout several months. 

Tobacco Buds are usually removed (known as topping) before they can flower; in order to increase leaf production and quality. After topping, new shoots will appear rapidly. 

Tobacco flower- Pretty Pinkish Sepal is cylindrical bell shaped with salver-shaped petals.

Tobacco flowers in full bloom, trumpeting towards the sky. After the flowers drop off, seed pods turned brown and dry containing thousands of tiny seeds. 

Freshly cut plants of the day. Tobacco is harvested in two ways - cutting off the stalk at the ground with a curved tobacco knife is the oldest method.

Pulling individual leaves is another method known as 'cropping'. A fully grown plant is about 7 ft tall and has about 18-22 leaves. Leaves ripen progressively from the bottom of the stalk upwards, thus they are picked at different times  at several weeks (about six times) interval. Two or four leaves are picked at a time upon perfect maturity and 6 leaves at the final pick before the whole plant is cut down. 

Bundles of tobacco leaves (10-12 leaves per bundle) are left on the fence to be sun-cured. Sun cured tobacco is low in sugar and nicotine. 

Shredded tobacco drying on woven bamboo trays in the yards of nearly every house.

Colour changes from rich green to yellow and then finally to brown. Thin sugar syrup is sprayed onto the tobacco to achieve a brownish colour and increase their weight.

After curing, farmers sell their tobacco to a buying agency or cigarette manufacturers for processing and packaged as cigarettes or cigars and other.

Surabaya: Off The Tourist Track 泗水少走的旅遊路線

Leaving the crowded Surabaya to wander further into the scenic countryside towards the far eastern side of East Java on the main coastal highway in a hired car with my brother. It was a pleasant journey with interesting and pristine views along the way.

Known as a dokar, this traditional jiggling horse cart wagon offers a mode of transportation service through the peaceful villages. The soft rhythmic sounds of bells together with the steady tempo of the horse galloping gave a pleasing countryside feel.  

Children going to school in a crowded 'becak' under the hot sun. (Please show this picture to spoiled kids who refuse to go to school, especially those who are chauffeured in luxurious cars!)  

A dumping site at the roadside that became a piece of oil painting artwork through the lens of my humble camera.

  

A true classic Dutch colonial cottage of more than 100 years old that still retains its vintage charm. We had a short visit as it's now the home of our friend's aunt. Everything inside and outside were still in place. The interior designs had a rustic relaxing farmhouse feel. And the history and tales of the colonial times related by her aunt were a precious piece of knowledge for keeps. 

Fueling stations for both human and vehicles along the roadsides are a common sight where vendors sell drinks, snacks and retail petrol in small quantity filled in bottles.

Neat rows of emerald paddy fields that lined the sides of the road

Lush Tobacco Plantation waving at us too

After a two hours' drive, we reached the city of Probolinggo, 80km southeast of Surabaya. It's the nearest city where tourists make a transit to the famous Mount Bromo which takes another 45km (two hours) to reach by minibus, car or jeep and required an overnight stay in order to see the natural beauty of one of The Most Spectacular Sunrise in the World. (in unGodly hours as early as 3:30am!) 

It was not in our travel itinerary and also we were not geared for the adventure, so we have to save it for another day.

Another 60km on the road took us to Paiton - a village town in the district of Probolinggo. Paiton is a less visited destination of East Java. We stayed at Paiton Resort Hotel whose restaurant served delicious traditional Indonesian cuisine.

Lalapan is a popular traditional dish of Indonesia. Plain white steamed rice is served with a wide spread of several Indonesian specialties as main dishes and fresh vegetables which cannot get any yummier without the Spicy Sambal Terasi.The best way to sample Indonesian specialities as main dishes come in small portion.

Upon request, their chef happily taught us how to make the original *Sambal for Ayam Penyet and Sambal Terasi for Lalapan. "Pedas but ShiOk ShiOK!!" 
(*Sambal is a chilli-based condiments. There are different varieties to go with different dishes.)  

Not far from Paiton resort is Pembangkit Tenaga Listrik Uap (PLTU) or Paiton Power Generation complex - a group of power plant units that supplies electricity power to Java- Bali. It's Indonesia's largest and most efficient coal-fired power plant. 

Then heading to Pasir Putih Beach or White Sand Beach that lies on the north coast of East Java, 174km from Surabaya and 21km west of Situbondo. So called because of the long stretch white sand that encompasses the beach. A quiet and less touristy beach but it's a popular weekend retreat for the local people.

It may not be as famous as other beaches, but this unspoiled beach is ideal for wind surfing, sailing, canoeing, snorkeling, diving, swimming, strolling or one can hire a traditional boat (US$5 an hour) to go fishing with the fishermen or take a good look at the exotic colourful fishes and exquisite beautiful corals. 

After leaving footprints on the white sandy beach, we drove back to Paiton Resort Hotel. 

The next day, we made our way to Bayuangga Bus Terminal in Probolinggo to board an express bus. No idea why the cracks and tiny holes on the windshield of the driver's side of the bus, but Thanks Goodness, we had a safe journey back to Surabaya.  

Sparkling Surabaya 閃閃的泗水

Surabaya is the capital of East Java and the second largest city of Indonesia. It is also the main seaport, business hub, commerce, industry, administrative and education center of eastern Indonesia. Known to the Indonesians as 'Kota Pahlawan' literally 'City of Heroes' as it was the home of many independence fighters during historical times. 

The city's logo is a white shark and a white crocodile; which according to legend, battled for the title 'The Strongest and Most Powerful Animal'. Thus its name 'Sura' meaning shark and 'Baya' meaning crocodile or known locally as Suroboyo in Javanese.

Views of the city from my room at Ibis Surabaya Rajawali Hotel. 

Food vendors opposite the hotel during early morning hours.

Urban swiftlets' home in the city center. 

The Oriental gateway to Chinatown district - A 750m long and 20m wide street lining with hundreds of small business, numerous Chinese restaurants and eateries. Locals still use hand pulled carts to transport their goods. An interesting glimpse into the past.

Spinach with salted egg and century egg (双蛋菠菜) served in a wok. Never have eaten such a dish anywhere else before. Simply Delicious! Just the right combinations.

Codfish congee 鳕鱼粥 is perfectly stomach warming top with salted egg, crispy fried yu tiao (油条), ginger, shallot, spring onion and celery. Wonder what's the secret recipe of this super smooth, soft congee with the fresh codfish still swimming in my stomach!

Fresh soursop and avocado whipped up into frothy juices, taste more like smoothie. Jus Alpukat (avocado juice) is a signature drink of Indonesia. The blend of ripe avocado, milk, coffee and ice with drizzle ribbons of chocolate syrup is heavenly! Addicted instantly!

The Suramadu Bridge or Surabaya-Madura Bridge connects Surabaya on Java Island and Bangkalan on Madura Island over the Madura Strait. It was officially opened on 10th June 2009 and is currently the longest bridge (5.438km) in Indonesia.

Stopping by along the bridge is not allowed with NO STOP signs everywhere. Took a quick snap before the efficient patrol police come chasing people off in their patrol cars.

End of the day was : 

Taxi fare always took a long time to settle..

The city's motto: 'Sparkling Surabaya' is to designate Surabaya as A Sparkling, Bright, Comfortable and Never Sleep City. Cannot sleep indeed. "How much did i give the taxi guy just now? Did i give him the correct amount? Did he give me back the correct change?"