Hue: Imperial Citadel Complex 順化古迹建筑群

The city of Hue was established as the national capital of unified Vietnam in 1802 till 1945 under the Nguyen Dynasty (Vietnam's last royal dynasty). In 1805, Gia Long, its first emperor ordered the construction of an Imperial Citadel after royal geomancers had decreed an auspicious geographical location on the northern bank of the Perfume River. 

Although it was much destroyed during the wars, few of the original structures remain intact. With its rich historical vestige values, it was listed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Sites on 11th December, 1993- labelled as 'Complex of Hué Monuments'. 

The massive complex, square in shape, has a total area of 520 hectares, comprising of three concentric ramparts: Capital, Royal/Imperial and Forbidden Citadels. 

1. Capital Citadel (Kinh Thanh)

During imperial times, this area used to accommodate various imperial ministerial buildings. Today, it constitutes a pleasant park with beautiful garden landscapes.

Flanking the sides of two entrance gates (Ngan Gate and Quang Duc Gate) are The Nine Holy Cannon (cửu vị thần công); cast from melted bronze wares of the previous Tay So Dynasty. These cannons were never used for military purposes, they were only used as protectors of the citadel. All the nine cannons are 5.10m in length but each cannon varies in weight and were named after the 4 seasons of the year (Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter) and 5 elements of the universe (Metal, Wood, Water, Fire, Earth).

Between the two gates is the Flag Tower or Cot Co, built in 1807. Towering 37m into the skyline with the national Vietnamese flag flapping in the wind, a focal point of Hue.

2.Royal/Imperial Citadel (Hoang Thanh)

Located in the center of the Citadel Complex, a second moat and defensive walls within the complex, the Royal Citadel is the most important part of the whole Imperial Complex.

Built in 1833, Ngo Mon Gate (午門) literally meaning Noon Gate is the main entrance to the Royal citadel. Two of the entrances are the entry and exit points for visitors (used by court officials and mandarins in the past). Entrance tickets are sold here. The middle entrance (accessible only by the Emperor in the past) is closed. 

During imperial times, the emperor would address or receive homage from his officials and people at the top of the gate known as Ngu Phung Pavilion or Five Phoenix Pavilion. 

Upon entering the gate is Trung Dao bridge (Central Path) over Thai Dich Lake filled with lotus and koi fish. At both ends of the bridge stood two ornate gateways.

Tourists will stop to take a look at the koi fish or buy fish pellets to feed them.

The Throne Palace (Thai Hao Dien) or Palace of Supreme Harmony is the heart of the Royal Citadel. Built by Emperor Gia Long in 1805 and was used later in 1806 for his coronation. It was also the center of the emperor's court where solemn ceremonies like Coronations of Emperors and Crown Princes, Royal birthdays/anniversaries, high officials of the state meetings and receiving foreign diplomats were conducted.

In front of the Throne Palace is the Great Rites Court, paved with thanh stones and consists of two levels where mandarins (magistrates of the imperial court) pay homage to the emperor. The upper level was for the high ranking and military mandarins while the lower level was for lower ranking mandarins and village elders.

At both corners of the court stood two bronze Qilins. The Qilin or the Chinese unicorn is regarded as a celestial animal and often used as auspicious guardian god. 

At the far end of the Throne palace are two enormous bronze urns imprinted with birds, animals, flower and plant motifs. Each urn has a weight of about 1500 kg.

Behind the Throne Palace are two Mandarin's Buildings, annexed to the Can Chanh Palace. In these two buildings, mandarins prepared themselves before meeting the emperor. These buildings also functioned as administrative offices for the Imperial civil services, national examinations halls and royal banquet halls. 

Visitors can get a picture dressed as an emperor sitting on the throne for VND30,000 in the Left Mandarin Building, while The Right Mandarin Building serves as a souvenir shop. 

3. Forbidden Citadel (Tu Cam Thanh)

North of the Throne Palace is The Forbidden City surrounded by walls to form a city within a city, solely reserved for the Emperor, his queen, concubines and female servants. No man except the emperor and eunuchs could set foot on this 10 hectares area which consist of more than 60 architectural buildings, 20 courtyards and 7 gates.  Most of the buildings were badly destroyed during the French and Americans wars.

The site where Kien Trung Palace (the last emperor's residence) once stood. Nothing was left except the front fences and the flight of stairs with descending dragons sculptures.       

A visit to Hue will not be complete without visiting The Imperial Citadel complex. Though it can never be able to recoup its regal glory, the complex is nevertheless the most historical and cultural monuments of Vietnam. See it even if you don't like history!

NOTE:

1. Opens daily: 6:30am - 5pm. Entrance to Hue Capital Citadel is free. But entrance beyond Ngo Mon Gate requires a ticket - VND105,000 per person. (for foreigner, i guess!)

2. Allow 2-3 hours to stroll through the massive complex. (wear comfortable shoes)

3. It can be unbearable hot; so best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon. 

4. Go with a tour guide or do your homework before you go as little information is provided for visitors. 

Hue: Thien Mu Pagoda 顺化:天姥寺

Adhere to a legend, a fairy lady appeared on Ha Khe hill foretelling the people that a Lord would come to build a Buddhist pagoda for peace and prosperity to the country. One day, while Lord Nguyen Hoang was passing the vicinity, he was told of the prophecy. To fulfill the prophecy, he ordered the construction of the pagoda in 1601 and named it Thien Mu Pagoda, literally 'Heavenly Lady Pagoda'. It became a religious heart of Buddhism in Hue.

The most pleasant way to get to Thien Mu Pagoda is cruising up along the poetic Perfume River (香江) in a dragon boat on a clear sunny day. A truly unforgettable experience.

The 45 minutes boat excursion offers many picturesque views of the river and life on the two banks of the river. A great platform for photography too!

Dragon boats drop tourists off right at the foot of the Pagoda complex.

Climbing up a steep staircase from the river edge to the entrance gate of four pillars.

Another short climb of steep staircase lead to the front part of the Pagoda complex.

Phuoc Duyen Tower or 'Source of Happiness Tower' was an addition structure built in 1884 by Emperor Thieu Tri. Overlooking Perfume River, this octagonal shape tower stands at 21m and has seven storey; each of which is dedicated to a different Buddha. 

To the left of the tower is a pavilion with a huge bronze bell named Dai Hung Chung with a height of 2.5 m, 4.5 feet in circumference and weights 3285kg. It was cast in 1710 by Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu. It has been claimed that the bell is audible 10km away. 

To the right of the tower is another pavilion housing an inscribed stone stele which records the history of Buddhism in Hue. It was craved in 1715 with a height of 2.58m standing on the back of a marble turtle, a symbol of longevity. 

Upon entering a second gate, walk through a garden courtyard to Dai Hung Shrine. 

Dai Hung Shrine- the main hall with brightly bronze statues of Shakyamuni Buddha (釋迦牟尼佛), Manjusri Bodhisattva (文殊師利菩薩) and Samantabhadra Bodhisattva (普賢菩薩).  

On the left behind Dai Hung Shrine, housed a national relic-The blue Austin car which Venerable Thich Quang Duc drove to Saigon on 11th June, 1963 to perform a self-immolation. He left his car at the center of an intersection, sat down calmly in a lotus position and burnt himself to death in protest against South Vietnam President Diem regime's policies of discrimination against Buddhists and violations of religious freedom. 

Hanging on the wall is a picture of the burning monk taken by an American journalist, Malcolm Browne. His photograph that shook the world with deep emotions was awarded a Pulitzer Prize as well as The World Press Photo of the year in 1963. 

(For more shocking photos and further reading:  http://lightbox.time.com/2012/08/28/malcolm-browne-the-story-behind-the-burning-monk/#1) 

The living quarters of the monks and novices- so spic-and-span!  

At the end of the complex, amid the pine forest is the tomb of the late Venerable Thich Don Hau, an abbot who has devoted all his life to Thien Mu Pagoda. 

There are lots of souvenirs and food stalls outside the pagoda complex where tourists can shop or take a break before continuing to explore their next destination. 

NOTE:

1. Thien Mu Pagoda is open daily from 8am-5pm. Entrance is Free. 

2. Thien Mu Pagoda is easily accessible by land or river. Boats are readily for hire along the Perfume River side on Le Loi street, near Trang Tien Bridge. 

3. Be respectful. Do not make too much noise while inside the Pagoda complex.

4. Have some money ready for temple donation boxes. (on one's own free will).

5. Dress modestly. No below knees attire nor sleeveless top for both men and women. Ladies should not be in their period.

6. There is no public transport/bus service to/from the pagoda. If you're taking a taxi, you may need to ask the taxi driver to wait. (Waiting fare may apply) or take an option to return to the city by a dragon boat. 

7. In case you take a dragon boat to the pagoda and wish to return to the city by taxi, you may pay a vendor (outside the pagoda) to help you to call a taxi. 

8. Accept a country's culture. Don't complain.    

Hoi An: Specialties You've Got To Try! 会安:特色食品您一定要试试!

Vietnamese food should not be missed when in Vietnam. Each region and each city has its own distinctive specialties to offer. Hoi An's traditional specialties are easily savoured around the city ranging from private homes to street vendors, food courts to classy restaurants. So fellow tourists, if you're in Hoi An, you die die must try!

Cao lầu - Rice Noodle

The foremost traditional food in Hoi An and can only be found in Hoi An where its secret recipe lies in the pre-soaked of noodles in well-water drawn from ancient Cham wells. 

This central regional Vietnamese dish is made with noodle, sliced pork, crispy crackers, mixed greens and juicy bean sprouts in light broth. The noodles are thickly cut, squarish looking, firm and chewy in texture. Its origin is said to come from either Japanese buckwheat soba noodles or Chinese wheat noodles as Hoi An was once the center of trade for these foreigners who were longing for the food of their homeland. 

Bánh bao vac - White Rose

The number 2 signature food of Hoi An, originated from a 120-years long kept family secret recipe. White Rose, a name given by the French is made from translucent white dough filled with shrimps and minced pork, bunched up to look like a rose, perhaps a Vietnamese version of the popular Chinese dim sum 'har gow' (虾饺 shrimp dumpling). It is served as an appetizer topped with crispy fried shallots and a lemony sweet chilli dipping sauce or plain fish sauce. A must try local favourite! 

Hoành Thánh Chien - Fried Wonton

Hoi An version of fried wonton are bite sized fried pieces of triangular dough topped with warm pineapple salsa and tomato relish, resembling a piece of pizza, thus often refer to as Hoi An pizza. Other variation toppings are prawns, pork, chicken or vegetables. A satisfying indulgent that will brighten up your day. Eat it while it's hot!

Chả Giò Chiên - Fried Vegetable Spring Rolls

CriSpy, CraCkly exterior with savoury fillings of sauteed mixed vegetables inside. Vietnamese spring roll wrappers are made from rice paper, making them lighter and crackier to differ from the Chinese spring rolls whose wrappers are wheat based. A light appetizer or a small meal treat at anytime of the day. 

Steam Rice with vegetables

Fluffy white steamed rice topped with stir-fried vegetables, just the way it should be. Vietnam rice has a soft texture, yet fulfilling and gentle on the stomach. 

Tôm Chiên Giòn- Deep Fried Shrimp

Crispy deep fried shrimp fritters served with tomato ketchup. Flavourful and delicious! 

Stir-fried Squid with Lemongrass

Chewy cuttlefish stir-fried with a combination of spices and herbs, sprinkled generously with sesame seeds. The unique aroma of the sauce, particularly the lemongrass makes us drool! Indeed, so delicious that you will want to lick your plate clean!

Grilled Fish in Banana leaf with lemon sauce

A local delicacy where tender fish fillets are seasoned, lightly grilled, topped with lemon sauce and presented on a piece of banana leaf. Not only does it look pretty, its yummy! 

Chocolate Banana Pancake

If you love pancakes, you'll love this hearty pancake with chunks of sweet banana embedded inside and chocolate sauce drizzled on top. Beware! It can get you addicted! 

We tried the above Hoi An specialties from a choice of set menus at a cafe.

Sweet and Sour Vegetarian Hot Pot  

As for my vegetarian mother, this vegetarian hot pot has a perfect balance of sweet and sour soup base with a healthy combination of tofu, tomato, pineapple, carrot, bak choy and mushrooms. Very appetizing to eat along with white steamed rice.

How was the food? See it for yourself! (Was the food too yummy or our stomach too hungry?) How much was the bill? I won't come back for a second time! (The owner was snobbish too!) 

Cơm Gà Hội An - Hoi An Chicken Rice

It was said that once you've tried Hoi An chicken rice, you'll remember it forever! From across the street, we could smell it's seductive aroma; so strong that it got our stomach rumbling. BUT we had to hold our hunger pangs because we were in Hoi An during the chicken flu outbreak!! I guess we'll have to come back when the chicken gets well! 

There are mobile food vendors rounding the streets. This cart reads 'Bánh flan "caramen" Đông Sương' literally Flan Cake Caramel East Dew. They sell a variety of puddings. 

Crème caramel is served in iced black coffee which is refillable till your heart's content! (at no additional cost). The crème caramel is velvety soft, eggy, sweet and delightful; lending a smooth buttery sweetness to the black coffee too. 

But the rainbow and coconut puddings were a bit hard and not enhancing any additional flavour to the black coffee. Eating them separately would be more palatable.    
  

A little dessert stall at a street corner selling my favourite dessert- 豆腐花 (soyabean pudding). A bowl of warm doufuhua drizzled with sweet ginger syrup, topped with ginger bits is hard to resist. Silky Soft, Sweet and gingerly Spicy! Must take a second serving.

All over the town, we saw locals snacking on these little colourful tiny shell critters sold in plastic bags. They used a mini sharp tool (made from the stem of a leaf) to extricate the meat from its shell and popped it in their mouths. *Can i try one?*

Those who love fresh beer will love Hoi An for sure! 

Cheap Cheap!! Cheers!! 

NOTE:

1. Cao Lầu can be eaten in almost everywhere in Hoi An but authentic Cau Lau is best from street food vendors who only served one or two dishes and with lots of local eaters!

2. White Rose is best sampled at 533 Hai Ba Trung where the 4th generation Tran family serve this delicacy and supply to major restaurants. Great grandfather Tran was the creator of White Rose and his recipe remain tightly kept as a family secret recipe.

3. Fresh beer are locally brewed beer that must be consumed within 24 hours. Check their expiry before you bottoms up!