Hanoi: Perfume Pagoda 河內:香佛塔之旅

The Perfume Pagoda (Chua Huong) is not just one pagoda, but a complex of Buddhist temples and pagodas scattered in and on Perfume Mountain (Huong Son) in Ha Tay province, 75km southwest of Hanoi. So called Perfume Pagoda not because they emit perfume but the sweet scents of blooming blossoms that filled the air during spring.

It is one of the most religious sites of Vietnam, where hundreds of thousands of pilgrims from all over Vietnam make a pilgrimage to come and pray between the first and third lunar months of each year, celebrated as the longest festival of Vietnam - The Perfume Pagoda Festival. Other time of the year, it remained as one of the best seller tourist destination for foreigners and other local Vietnamese tourists. 

The Perfume Pagoda tour was not in our plan. However, we got attracted by this brochure, and so we took the tour. (without any idea what Perfume pagoda is all about!)

Two hours drive from Hanoi in a minibus. Reached Yen Wharf at 11am. Transferred to an iron sampan with plastic chairs and hand paddled by local ladies, young and elderly. 

We saw this red red iron bridge just the way it was printed on the brochure, but not those pretty red red flowers. - Sigh.. Spring's over! 

Gliding down the poetic Yen Stream with scenic view of mountains, hidden villages, paddy farms, duckies swimming in enclosed ponds, water lilies, morning glory and trees draping out over the water of the meandering stream.

It was peaceful and serene with only the smoothing sound of water splashing as the boat lady paddled in steady strokes. Occasionally, came lovely dragonflies dipping their tails in the water. Oh, it would be so romantic if only he was by my side!! 

The boating journey seem endless. It was then made enjoyable when the rowers started to overtake each other like having a national boat race till we reached Thien Tru pier, stationed at the base of Perfume Mountain.

Check if your tour price is inclusive of the cable car rides. If not, you can either buy the ticket on the spot or climb hundreds of steep steps up which required a certain level of fitness and a healthy heart. We chose to walk up to have a cultural 'pilgrimage feel' but purchase a cable car ticket (US$5) for the return trip for body energy saving option.

The trek uphill were steps of ancient stones that was of thousands years old; slippery at times. Although tiring but you could pause for breath catching moments while admiring breathtaking views of the surrounding sceneries, smaller pagodas and local farmers' daily life among the hills and valleys. Or pause for the lines of stalls that have many interesting things for sale, besides food, drinks and souvenirs.

Huong Tich Pagoda (Pagoda of the Perfume Vestige) is the most popular pagoda set in a natural cave. Trekking for about an hour to the top of the mountain to reach this gate, believed to be the dragon's mouth. Take a deep breath, dry my sweat first...

Then taking a steady steep 120 steps descending into the Inner temple which lies deep within the cave. The huge column of stalactite in the middle of the entrance is called 'Dun Gạo' meaning Rice Stack.

Legend has said that a pilgrimage to Huong Pagoda will bring luck, prosperity, health and happiness. And if you're single, catch 3 drops of water from a stalactite in your hand and your true love will come soon. Why didn't they tell me earlier? I would have brought an empty bottle, collect the water and share it with all my single friends!

Various altars honouring different deities for worship, prayers or for a special wish request. Take note that burning of incense is strongly prohibited.

The Inner Temple which is the center of the Perfume Pagoda and also a sacred place as legend had it that the Goddess of Mercy once stayed here to help human souls.

Many pilgrims also come here to get blessings from the stalactites and stalagmites which were worn smooth after years of rubbing. They even have names like Gold Tree, Silver Tree, Heaps of Coins, Baskets of Silkworms from the shapes they resembled and are sought after by pilgrims for special purposes. I don't know the name of this one nor its power but it was really smooth, cooling and had a heavenly calming effect. 

Luckily, we took the cable car to get down. I don't think i could make it on foot for my feet and 'body batteries' had gone flat! And to our amazement, the magnificent views of the whole pagoda area, mountains and valleys were stunning with a double WOW!

Lunch was Vietnamese country-side style dishes at a restaurant. Hungry and exhausted, lunch seemed to be the most delicious ever!!  

The tour continued with a visit to Thien Chu Pagoda (Pagoda leading to Heaven) to admire the ancient architectural structure of the Le Dynasty dated back to 15th century. Thien Chu is the main pagoda of the Perfume Pagoda, embedded within mountains and hills.

The three storey bell tower of Thien Chu Pagoda, dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy.

Tam Quan gate at Thien Chu Pagoda. 

The return trip back to Yen Wharf in the same boat along the same stream with the same sceneries and the same boat lady! So i just closed my eyes and let time meandering slowly down the stream....    

NOTE:

1. Take this tour as an experience. Don't expect too much and be tolerant. 

2. Best time to go is during the festival season for a truly unforgettable cultural  experience but can be overly-crowded with at least 100,000 pilgrims!

3. No skimpy outfit for religious sites.

4. Sitting in the iron boat for 2 hours (to and fro) can be unbearable hot or a little uncomfortable, bring whatever you need. (and if it rained!)

5. Cable cars might not operate due to little number of tourists (especially during low seasons)

6. Empty your bowels before the boat trips. (about an hour per trip)

7. Tip the boat lady on the return trip after getting off from the boat, or else she will come running after you. (i wonder how much were they paid when i noticed the boat ticket for a round trip was only VND35,000/RM5.10 per person)