We took a 7 seater taxi (USD25) to Hoi An with a stop at the famous Ngũ Hành Sơn, literally 'Five Elements Mountain' or favourably known as Marble Mountains - a cluster of marble and limestone mountains 9km south of Danang and 20km from Hoi An.
An old Cham legend has it that a Dragon came onshore to lay a divine egg on the beach. Slowly, the egg grew until it was hatched. The shell cracked into five fragments that eventually became the five mountains. Cham people came here to worship their Gods and built altars inside the caves. Gradually, it became a popular Buddhist pilgrimage place and later as one of the major tourist attractions of Danang.
Each mountain (Sơn) is named after the five elements of the Universe according to the classical Chinese Philosophy. The mountains (in clockwise location) are Hao-Fire, Kim-Metal, Tho-Earth, Thuy-Water and Moc-Wood.
The only mountain accessible to visitors is Thuy Son, the Water Mountain which is also the most popular, beautiful, largest and highest of the five mountains. Water Mountain is divided into three areas- upper, middle and lower areas with numerous caves and pagodas dated from the early 17th century.
Two options up the Water Mountain- Elevator or 108 stone steps? Elevator of course!
A part of the village viewed from inside the elevator on the way up to Water Mountain.
Right hand side view upon exit from the elevator
Left hand side, a 180 degrees view of the other element mountains surrounded by villages. A popular spot where tourists took turns to have their pictures taken.
Follow a pathway to Bao Thap Xa Loi, a beautiful seven storey pagoda where people come to pray for a healthy and peaceful live. Me too!
Walk along the pathway and then down a short flight of stone steps to reach Linh Ung Temple- a shrine on the cliff of Water Mountain within a cave facing the sea. There are elderly ladies selling incense sticks (VND20,000/USD1) around the temple courtyard whom (some) tourists got mad with their pushy pestering. Life is hard. Be kind.
The Goddess of Mercy pavilion stood on the right side while a white statue of Sakyamuni Buddha in meditation sit on the left side of the temple's courtyard.
Behind Linh Ung Temple, a marked path leads to Tang Chon cave which has a narrow natural stone entrance. There is an altar with Cham sculptures dated from the 10th century. It's cooling and soothing inside the cave, perfect for a Power nap!
A huge stone Buddha statue inside Tang Chon cave. After paying our respects, we made an exit and continued our adventure to Van Thong cave. (middle area of Water Mountain)
Ascending and descending the flight of steep natural stone steps leading to and then back from Van Thong Cave can be a fairly strenuous struggle. And with the sun stinging hot above, I wish I was relaxing in the hotel room watching HBO.
The stone staircase ended into a cool resting place through a natural arch where visitors can catch a breathe or take a break. There was this lady who kept playing 'Tarzan's Jane' by swinging on the hanging roots of the tree to catch everyone's attention.
Visitors can have some refreshments at the drink stalls or hit straight to Van Thong cave. Van Thong cave is round and slant shaped with a large Buddha statue inside.
Behind the statue is the "Road to Heaven", a steep rocky climb to the peak of Water mountain. The pathway gets narrower as it gets closer to the peak which has a one meter diameter hole for the successful climber to be rewarded a breathtaking panoramic view of the area. Wonder how many people have actually made it to 'Heaven'!
We walked back and followed a marked path to Vong Hai Dai or Sea-viewing Pavilion. The pavilion has a 2m high Tra Kieu stone stele engraved with Chinese characters.
From Vong Hai Dai looking out afar a serene landscape of the pristine China beach and azure blue waters of the glistening South China Sea.
Looking at the map, we only managed to visit 5 spots of middle and lower areas of Water Mountain in about 90 minutes. No more energy left to see the upper area of the mountain. *SiGh!* So we took the elevator down after a short rest.
A short distance from the elevator is Am Phu Cave or Hell Cave at the base of Water Mountain. It was officially opened to visitors on 7th September 2006 with an entrance fee of VDN15,000 per person. Don't want to know how Hell is like, so went wandering in the village instead. Had a glass of cool refreshing sugar cane juice in a shop.
Non Nuoc Village is famous for stone sculptures and crafts where stone carving has been handed down to seven or eight generations since the 15th century.
Extremely exquisite marble artworks from miniature statuettes to gigantic sizes, mainly on Buddhist deities are the talent and diligence of the artisans.
NOTE:
1. Marble Mountains open daily: 7am -5pm.
2. Entrance ticket to Water Mountain (pp): VDN15,000. Elevator VDN15,000 one way/VDN30,000 return. Total: VDN45,000 (excluding Am Phu Cave). Ticketing lady, when seeing foreigners will ask for USD3 instead of VND45,000.
3. If you can, Don't miss Huyen Khong Cave (largest and most impressive cave, marked number 10 on the map). A torch light is handy.
4. Although the elevator has ease off the climb up the mountain, visiting one cave/pagoda to another on stone paths, ascending and descending from steep stone steps can be physically-challenging. Certain level of fitness and good walking shoes are advisable. (But some ladies can do it in high heels! *Aiks*)
5. Have some money ready for temple/cave donation boxes. (on one's own free will)
6. Keep the elevator ticket for your return trip if you have bought a 2-way ticket.
7. Dress modestly when visiting temple. No below knees attire nor sleeveless top for both men and women. Ladies should not be in their period.
8. Accept a country's culture. Don't complain.
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