Monday, June 24, 2013

Hoi An: Specialties You've Got To Try! 会安:特色食品您一定要试试!

Vietnamese food should not be missed when in Vietnam. Each region and each city has its own distinctive specialties to offer. Hoi An's traditional specialties are easily savoured around the city ranging from private homes to street vendors, food courts to classy restaurants. So fellow tourists, if you're in Hoi An, you die die must try!

Cao lầu - Rice Noodle
The foremost traditional food in Hoi An and can only be found in Hoi An where its secret recipe lies in the pre-soaked of noodles in well-water drawn from ancient Cham wells. 

This central regional Vietnamese dish is made with noodle, sliced pork, crispy crackers, mixed greens and juicy bean sprouts in light broth. The noodles are thickly cut, squarish looking, firm and chewy in texture. Its origin is said to come from either Japanese buckwheat soba noodles or Chinese wheat noodles as Hoi An was once the center of trade for these foreigners who were longing for the food of their homeland. 

Bánh bao vac - White Rose
The number 2 signature food of Hoi An, originated from a 120-years long kept family secret recipe. White Rose, a name given by the French is made from translucent white dough filled with shrimps and minced pork, bunched up to look like a rose, perhaps a Vietnamese version of the popular Chinese dim sum 'har gow' (虾饺 shrimp dumpling). It is served as an appetizer topped with crispy fried shallots and a lemony sweet chilli dipping sauce or plain fish sauce. A must try local favourite! 

Hoành Thánh Chien - Fried Wonton
Hoi An version of fried wonton are bite sized fried pieces of triangular dough topped with warm pineapple salsa and tomato relish, resembling a piece of pizza, thus often refer to as Hoi An pizza. Other variation toppings are prawns, pork, chicken or vegetables. A satisfying indulgent that will brighten up your day. Eat it while it's hot!

Chả Giò Chiên Fried Vegetable Spring Rolls
CriSpy, CraCkly exterior with savoury fillings of sauteed mixed vegetables inside. Vietnamese spring roll wrappers are made from rice paper, making them lighter and crackier to differ from the Chinese spring rolls whose wrappers are wheat based. A light appetizer or a small meal treat at anytime of the day. 

Steam Rice with vegetables
Fluffy white steamed rice topped with stir-fried vegetables, just the way it should be. Vietnam rice has a soft texture, yet fulfilling and gentle on the stomach. 

Tôm Chiên Giòn- Deep Fried Shrimp
Crispy deep fried shrimp fritters served with tomato ketchup. Flavourful and delicious! 

Stir-fried Squid with Lemongrass
Chewy cuttlefish stir-fried with a combination of spices and herbs, sprinkled generously with sesame seeds. The unique aroma of the sauce, particularly the lemongrass makes us drool! Indeed, so delicious that you will want to lick your plate clean!

Grilled Fish in Banana leaf with lemon sauce
A local delicacy where tender fish fillets are seasoned, lightly grilled, topped with lemon sauce and presented on a piece of banana leaf. Not only does it look pretty, its yummy! 

Chocolate Banana Pancake
If you love pancakes, you'll love this hearty pancake with chunks of sweet banana embedded inside and chocolate sauce drizzled on top. Beware! It can get you addicted! 

We tried the above Hoi An specialties from a choice of set menus at a cafe.

Sweet and Sour Vegetarian Hot Pot  
As for my vegetarian mother, this vegetarian hot pot has a perfect balance of sweet and sour soup base with a healthy combination of tofu, tomato, pineapple, carrot, bak choy and mushrooms. Very appetizing to eat along with white steamed rice.

How was the food? See it for yourself! (Was the food too yummy or our stomach too hungry?) How much was the bill? I won't come back for a second time! (The owner was snobbish too!) 

Cơm Gà Hội An - Hoi An Chicken Rice
It was said that once you've tried Hoi An chicken rice, you'll remember it forever! From across the street, we could smell it's seductive aroma; so strong that it got our stomach rumbling. BUT we had to hold our hunger pangs because we were in Hoi An during the chicken flu outbreak!! I guess we'll have to come back when the chicken gets well! 

There are mobile food vendors rounding the streets. This cart reads 'Bánh flan "caramen" Đông Sương' literally Flan Cake Caramel East Dew. They sell a variety of puddings. 

Crème caramel is served in iced black coffee which is refillable till your heart's content! (at no additional cost). The crème caramel is velvety soft, eggy, sweet and delightful; lending a smooth buttery sweetness to the black coffee too. 

But the rainbow and coconut puddings were a bit hard and not enhancing any additional flavour to the black coffee. Eating them separately would be more palatable.    
  
A little dessert stall at a street corner selling my favourite dessert- 豆腐花 (soyabean pudding). A bowl of warm doufuhua drizzled with sweet ginger syrup, topped with ginger bits is hard to resist. Silky Soft, Sweet and gingerly Spicy! Must take a second serving.

All over the town, we saw locals snacking on these little colourful tiny shell critters sold in plastic bags. They used a mini sharp tool (made from the stem of a leaf) to extricate the meat from its shell and popped it in their mouths. *Can i try one?*


Those who love fresh beer will love Hoi An for sure! 
Cheap Cheap!! Cheers!! 

NOTE:
1. Cao Lầu can be eaten in almost everywhere in Hoi An but authentic Cau Lau is best from street food vendors who only served one or two dishes and with lots of local eaters!

2. White Rose is best sampled at 533 Hai Ba Trung where the 4th generation Tran family serve this delicacy and supply to major restaurants. Great grandfather Tran was the creator of White Rose and his recipe remain tightly kept as a family secret recipe.

3. Fresh beer are locally brewed beer that must be consumed within 24 hours. Check their expiry before you bottoms up! 

Monday, June 17, 2013

Hoi An: 6 Heritage Sites in a Day 会安:一日走过的6历史景点

The tourist heart of Hoi Ab is the Old Town with its unique centuries-old heritage sites. Strolling around the Old Town is free. However, a ticket of VND120,000/USD6 (with 5 mini tickets attached) must be purchased to enter any 5 of the 21 heritage sites (of your choice) listed in the guide map given. These are the 6 sites we visited:

1. Japanese Bridge/Chùa Cầu/Lai Vien Kieu 
A unique arched-shape covered bridge built in 1593 by the Japanese merchants in order to cross the stream to the Chinese quarters. It still retain its distinctive features the way it was, though it has been rebuilt several times over the years. It has been officially declared as symbol of Hoi An and listed as one of the World's top 10 covered bridges.  

Both entrances of the bridge look the same. From here, (155D) Tran Phu street (Chinese quarter), one can walk across the bridge to (1D) Nguyen Thi Minh Khai street (Japanese quarter) and vice versa. Cyclists need to walk their bikes across the bridge.

The Vietnamese community added a small Taoist temple dedicated to Bac De Tran Vo, the God of Weather inside the bridge - the only one bridge in the world attached with a temple. Above the door, the signboard reads 来遠橋 "Lai Vien Kieu" meaning 'Bridge for Travelers from Afar', a new name given to replace Japanese covered bridge in 1719.


Guarding the bridge are a pair of monkey and dog statues craved from jack fruit wood with different legendary tales. Some said that the construction of the bridge began in the Chinese zodiac Year of the Monkey (1593) and completed in the Year of the Dog (1595). Other said that many Japanese emperors were born in the Year of the Monkey or the Dog, making these two animals sacred significance. Which version sounds more sensible? 

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai street (Japanese quarters) is a peaceful street lined with many authentic cafes, beautiful art galleries, interesting curios and knick knacks shops. After a short walk, we turned back to the Japanese bridge, cross back to Tran Phu street. 

2.Phuoc Kien/Fujian Assembly Hall, 46 Tran Phu street
The largest and most popular of the Chinese assembly halls. In 1692, it was a temple named Kim Son pagoda built by the Viet people dedicated to Buddha. Over the passage pf time, it was damaged. In 1759, it was sold to the rich Fujian traders from China. After the restoration, it was renamed 'Fujian Assembly Hall' and a temple dedicated to Thien Hau (Goddess of Sea). The impressive 'triple arched gate' (picture above) was built in 1975.

Upon entering the 'triple arched gate' is a garden courtyard leading to the main hall, initially used by the Fujian clan for holding meetings/festive functions and to socialize.  

The main hall is now dedicated to Thien Hau (天后 Goddess of Sea), a Chinese deity from Fujian province of China, who is believed to protect fishermen and sea farers from dangers at sea. Thien Hau sits in the main altar while her two guardian generals, QianLiYan (千里眼将军 General 'Thousand Miles Eye') and ShunFongEr (顺风耳将军 General 'With the Wind Ears') were positioned on the right and left sides of the hall respectively. 

Hanging symmetrically from the ceiling are red incense spirals made entirely of fine incense (without a bamboo core inside) that can burn for weeks. Anyone can purchase the incense merely as an offering to a god/goddess or to 'request' for their wish(es) to be granted OR as an offering of appreciation after their wish(es) had been granted.    

A replica of a 1875 Chinese junk, believed to have saved from stormy seas by Thien Hau.

A dragon made of enamel porcelain and colourful glass pieces twisted around a fountain pond filled with ornamental fishes located behind the main hall.

3.Hainan Assembly Hall, 10 Tran Phu street  (free entrance)
Built in 1851 by the overseas Chinese of Hainan, (China) who were living in Hoi An as a place to socialize, serve the community and to worship their ancestors. It was later used also as a memorial in homage to the 108 Hainan merchants who were mistakenly killed as pirates by Emperor Tu Duc's navy on 16th July 1851. Locals who are suffering from injustice or bad luck will come here to pray or to obtain blessings.  

Upon entering the entrance (picture above) is an open garden courtyard leading to the main hall dedicated to the 108 Hainan merchants after they were vindicated by Emperor Tu Duc as deities to be worshiped. Founders of the Haninan assembly hall are honoured on the right side of the hall while the God of Wealth is worshiped on the left side. 

4. Trieu Chau/Teochew Assembly Hall, 157 Nguyen Duy Hieu street
Built in 1845 by the overseas Chinese from Trieu Chau, (China) who were living in Hoi An as a place to socialize, serve the community and to perform religious activities. In those days, people used to come to pray at night for their wishes to come true. 
  
A short walk from the main gate (picture above) leads to a second entrance whose roof tops were ornate with interesting colourful mosaic, porcelain dioramas and glazed terracotta figurines and features depicting folklore legends and mythology. Perhaps the most memorable part of this assembly hall. Don't forget to look up! *WoOW*

And words cannot describe the subtle beauty of these three-dimensional figurative exquisitely hand carved wooden doors, a remarkable trait of Teochew architecture.

The main hall is dedicated to General Phuc Ba, the God of Wind and Waves. The other two sides are for worshiping The God of Wealth and Luck. Descendants of the Teochew clan will gather here on 1st-15th days of a lunar new year to worship their ancestors. 

5. Traditional Handicraft Workshop, 9 Nguyen Thai Hoc street 
A more than 200 years old trading house showcasing the rich and creative talents of Vietnamese in the field of performing arts and craftsmanship. A wide variety of handicrafts and souvenir items are for sale at the backyard.   


Tourists orientated cultural show of traditional music, folk dance and performances are shown twice daily at 10:15 am and 15:15 pm. Something not to be missed out!

Glad that my parents enjoyed the folklore dance performance. You don't have to know the story line to enjoy the show! They tell stories with their graceful body movements and dramatic facial expressions. Come early to grab a stool if you don't want to stand at the back. You might not even have a place to stand if there is a big tour group!!

Besides traditional cultural performances, tourists get a glimpse into Vietnamese traditional arts and crafts in the back yard. Watching a all-by-hand lantern making process can be a totally absorbing experience well worth your time. 

And watching young skillful artisans hand craved a block of lifeless wood into a piece of lively profound sculpture can make your jaws dropped too! *Aww, now WHERE's my jaws?*

6. Tan Ky House, 101 Nguyen Thai Hoc street
Built by Minh Huong, a Chinese merchant from China who came to Hoi An to trade in the 17th century. It has been beautifully preserved and had went through seven generations till present day. The name Tan Ky meaning 'Progress shop' was given by the second generation wishing for a prosperous business. It used to be a shop selling cinnamon, silk, tea and medicines derived from rare animals' bones.

This Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese combination architectural house has 4 small rooms packed with beautiful antiques. One room is used for welcoming Chinese merchants while the others are a living room, a courtyard and a bedroom. Visitors can enter the three rooms except the bedroom. There is a souvenir shop at the backyard and a back door opens onto Bach Dang street and Thu Bon river. 

NOTE: 
1. Japanese Bridge- Ticket is needed to enter/cross the bridge.  

2. Fujian Assembly Hall- Probably spend more time here than the other assembly halls.

3. Hainan Assembly Hall- Free entrance. So just take a free look!

4. Teochew Assembly Hall- Don't forget to look at the rooftop of the second entrance. 

5. Traditional Handicraft Workshop- Don't miss the traditional cultural show. Tipping is on one's own free will. 

6. Tan Ky House- Look for a free guide (in the house) if you want a detail of the house. 

7. Take time to have a good look at the uniqueness of each different historical sites.  

8. Unless you have difficulty walking, DO NOT TAKE THE CYCLO - if you stay too long in one place, the cyclo man will get mad or demand you to pay more! 

For a brief introduction of all the historical sites, check this out: http://tropicallulu.blogspot.com/2013/07/hoi-old-town-heritage-sites.html


Monday, June 10, 2013

Hoi An: Old Town Heritage Sites 会安:古城历史文化景点

Hoi An was a significant Southeast Asian trading port during the 16th to 19th century where foreign merchants came to trade goods. Some merchants settled down with the locals, built houses, temples and structures based on their native architectural styles. 

Hoi An is the ONLY city in Vietnam that was spared much of the destruction of the Vietnam wars (French and American) and remained intact over the centuries. On 4th December 1999, Hoi An (old town) was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

Strolling around the Old Town is free. However, a ticket of VND120,000/USD6 (with 5 mini tickets attached) must be purchased in order to enter any 5 heritage sites of your choice:

1) Famous Landmarks: Unique and fascinating structures with legendary tales.

Japanese Bridge or Chùa Cầu, 155 Tran Phu street
Officially declared as the symbol of Hoi An, the arched-shape bridge remained just the way it was way back in the 1593, built by the Japanese in order to cross the stream to the Chinese quarters. It was renamed 来遠橋 "Lai Vien Kieu" meaning 'Bridge for Travelers from Afar' in 1719.

Quan Cong Temple,  24 Tran Phu street
Built in 1653, dedicated to Quan Cong, a prominent and virtuous General during the feudal time of China of the three kingdom. Worshiped as a symbol for sincerity, loyalty, integrity and justice.

2) Chinese Assembly Halls are places to socialize, hold meetings and preserve the tradition for the future generation. They were built by the overseas Chinese merchants according to their respective province of origin in China.

Chinese All Community Assembly Hall 66 Tran Phu Street
Built in 1773, as an assembly hall for all Chinese regardless of their dialects, giving aids to merchants and seamen. It was also used as a meeting place for all the Chinese communities. 


Cantonese Assembly Hall,  176 Tran Phu street 
Built in 1885 by the Chinese immigrants from Guangdong, China dedicated to Quan Cong, a Chinese general. In those days, it was a place for Chinese fishermen and merchants to stay temporarily or exchange goods.


Fujian Assembly Hall,  46 Tran Phu street
The largest and most popular of the Chinese assembly halls. In 1697, it was a temple named Kim Son Pagoda built by the Viet people dedicated to Buddha. In 1759, it was sold to the rich overseas Fujian merchants from China. After the restoration, it was renamed 'Fujian Assembly Hall' and transformed to a temple dedicated to Thien Hau- the Goddess of Sea.


Hainan Assembly Hall (*Free entrance),  10 Tran Phu street 
Built in 1851 by the overseas Chinese of Hainan, (China) who were living in Hoi An as a meeting place to socialize, serve the community and to worship their ancestors. It was later used also as a memorial in homage to the 108 Hainan merchants who were mistakenly killed as pirates by Emperor Tu Duc's navy on 16th July 1851. Locals who are suffering from injustice or bad luck will come here to pray or obtain blessings.


Trieu Chau (Teochew) Assembly Hall, 157 Nguyen Duy Hieu street  
Built in 1845 by the overseas Chinese from Trieu Chau, (China) who were living in Hoi An as a meeting place to socialize, serve the community and to perform religious activities. In those days, people used to come to pray at night for their wishes to come true. Descendants of the Teochew clan will gather here on 1st-15th days of a lunar new year to worship their ancestors. 

3) There are 4 Museums highlighting the history and culture of Hoi An relating to different historical phases of a bygone era.


Museum of Trade Ceramics, 80 Tran Phu street
Built in 1858, opened to public in 1975. This old traditional Vietnamese house exhibit vases, broken pieces of pottery dating from the 15th to the 17th centuries. Other display include antiques from a 1733 wrecked ship and pottery of the Chinese Tang Dynasty in the 7th-10th centuries.


Museum of Folk Culture, 33 Nguyen Thai Hoc street
Opened to public on 24 March 2005. Showcase the daily lives of the humble Hoi An people through the years in a 150 years' old Chinese house. There are 600 artifacts and 90% were original.  


Sa Huynh Culture Museum, 149 Bach Dang street
An important legacy of Hoi An that housed the relics of the Sa Huynh culture- a pre-historic bronze age civilization. First floor showcased weapons of war, while ground floor displayed items dating back to the 1st millennium B.C. - the Iron Age. There are a total of 216 exhibits which are considered the most unique in Vietnam.

Museum of History and Culture, 7 Nguyen Hue street
Built as a religious place in 1635. Established as a museum in 1989. Houses an old canon and artifacts dating back to 3,000BC. There are some black and white old photos, maps and documents of the formation and development of Hoi An.  

4) The Old Houses were built by wealthy merchants whose descendants still live and preserve their traditions while opening doors to visitors for an insight cultural tour.

Duc An House, 129 Tran Phu street
A well-preserved old house where the Phan family has lived to the eight generations. In the middle of the house, there is a garden courtyard with trees and bonsai plants. 

Phung Hung House,  4 Nguyen Thi Minh khai street 
Built in 1780 that has eight generations living there till the present day. A traditional two-story wooden house of Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese architectural styles.  There is a gift shop on the 1st floor. Listed as a historical vestige of Vietnam in 1993.

Quan Thang House, 77 Nguyen Thai Hoc street
An artistic house built by Quan Thang, a wealthy sea captain of medicinal business in the 18th century. It has an impressive decorated interior where the furniture arrangement remained the way it was. 

Tan Ky House,  101 Nguyen Thai Hoc street
A 17th century beautifully preserved merchant shop house that had went through seven generations till present day. The Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese combination architectural house has 4 small rooms packed with beautiful antiques. The walls are decorated with unique mosaic arts.

Tran Family House, 21 Le Loi street
Built in 1802 by the Tran Tu Nhuc for his family and ancestors worship before he was sent off to China as Emperor Gia Long's envoy. The house is within a walled compound. made from original wood from China. Elegantly decorated with precious antiques and royal gifts.

5) Traditional Arts and Culture: Immerse in a cultural experience of Hoi An through their traditional crafts making and legendary folk songs and performances.

Traditional Handicraft Workshop, 9 Nguyen Thai Hoc street
A 200 years old trading house showcasing the rich and creative talents of Vietnamese in the field of performing arts and craftsmanship. 

Tourists orientated cultural shows are shown twice daily at 10:15 am and 15:15 pm for about 30 minutes.  

Traditional Theatre, 75 Nguyen Thai Hoc street
Set in a small old building where live performances of Vietnamese folk songs, dances and traditional instruments- a great cultural entertainment for tourists. 7:30pm daily.   

NOTE: 
If you want to see what's inside the heritage sites: 
1. Purchase ticket at a designated ticketing booth - 1 ticket is for 5 sites only. If you'll like to visit more than 5 sites, purchase additional tickets!  

2. Because all the sites are scattered over the old town, choose ahead the 5 sites you would like to visit as each site requires a ticket for entry. (otherwise stated as free entrance) 

3. Different sites may have their own (special) visiting hours.

4. Depending on where your starting point is, locate first the sites on the guide map (provided when purchasing the ticket) for easy finding and navigating.   

5. Best to see the heritage sites on foot, as they are located near to each other. Unless you have difficulty walking, DO NOT TAKE THE CYCLO (unless you want to be ripped off!)

6. Some internet sites indicated that you may only choose 1 site from each category. But it wasn't the rule when we were there - you can enter any 5 sites of your choice regardless of the category.

7. The city council requests visitors to dress modestly while visiting old town historical sites. No below knees attire nor sleeveless top for both men and women. 

8. Accept a country's culture. Don't complain.

If you don't need to see what's inside the heritage sites:
You don't actually need a ticket to stroll the old town where the heritage sites are situated. Just walk around the town and you can view these sites from outside only. DON'T (kaypoh) go to the ticketing booth for any information because if you DO NOT purchase the ticket, they will even restrict you from walking into the Old Town telling you that you MUST purchase a ticket. And it's pointless to argue. 

For Hoi An old town historical sites locality map, check it out:
http://www.hoianguides.com/sightseeing-map-hoi-an/

For further reading, Check this out:
http://tropicallulu.blogspot.com/2013/06/hoi-6-heritage-sites-in-day-6.html

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