Monday, June 17, 2013

Hoi An: 6 Heritage Sites in a Day 会安:一日走过的6历史景点

The tourist heart of Hoi Ab is the Old Town with its unique centuries-old heritage sites. Strolling around the Old Town is free. However, a ticket of VND120,000/USD6 (with 5 mini tickets attached) must be purchased to enter any 5 of the 21 heritage sites (of your choice) listed in the guide map given. These are the 6 sites we visited:

1. Japanese Bridge/Chùa Cầu/Lai Vien Kieu 
A unique arched-shape covered bridge built in 1593 by the Japanese merchants in order to cross the stream to the Chinese quarters. It still retain its distinctive features the way it was, though it has been rebuilt several times over the years. It has been officially declared as symbol of Hoi An and listed as one of the World's top 10 covered bridges.  

Both entrances of the bridge look the same. From here, (155D) Tran Phu street (Chinese quarter), one can walk across the bridge to (1D) Nguyen Thi Minh Khai street (Japanese quarter) and vice versa. Cyclists need to walk their bikes across the bridge.

The Vietnamese community added a small Taoist temple dedicated to Bac De Tran Vo, the God of Weather inside the bridge - the only one bridge in the world attached with a temple. Above the door, the signboard reads 来遠橋 "Lai Vien Kieu" meaning 'Bridge for Travelers from Afar', a new name given to replace Japanese covered bridge in 1719.


Guarding the bridge are a pair of monkey and dog statues craved from jack fruit wood with different legendary tales. Some said that the construction of the bridge began in the Chinese zodiac Year of the Monkey (1593) and completed in the Year of the Dog (1595). Other said that many Japanese emperors were born in the Year of the Monkey or the Dog, making these two animals sacred significance. Which version sounds more sensible? 

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai street (Japanese quarters) is a peaceful street lined with many authentic cafes, beautiful art galleries, interesting curios and knick knacks shops. After a short walk, we turned back to the Japanese bridge, cross back to Tran Phu street. 

2.Phuoc Kien/Fujian Assembly Hall, 46 Tran Phu street
The largest and most popular of the Chinese assembly halls. In 1692, it was a temple named Kim Son pagoda built by the Viet people dedicated to Buddha. Over the passage pf time, it was damaged. In 1759, it was sold to the rich Fujian traders from China. After the restoration, it was renamed 'Fujian Assembly Hall' and a temple dedicated to Thien Hau (Goddess of Sea). The impressive 'triple arched gate' (picture above) was built in 1975.

Upon entering the 'triple arched gate' is a garden courtyard leading to the main hall, initially used by the Fujian clan for holding meetings/festive functions and to socialize.  

The main hall is now dedicated to Thien Hau (天后 Goddess of Sea), a Chinese deity from Fujian province of China, who is believed to protect fishermen and sea farers from dangers at sea. Thien Hau sits in the main altar while her two guardian generals, QianLiYan (千里眼将军 General 'Thousand Miles Eye') and ShunFongEr (顺风耳将军 General 'With the Wind Ears') were positioned on the right and left sides of the hall respectively. 

Hanging symmetrically from the ceiling are red incense spirals made entirely of fine incense (without a bamboo core inside) that can burn for weeks. Anyone can purchase the incense merely as an offering to a god/goddess or to 'request' for their wish(es) to be granted OR as an offering of appreciation after their wish(es) had been granted.    

A replica of a 1875 Chinese junk, believed to have saved from stormy seas by Thien Hau.

A dragon made of enamel porcelain and colourful glass pieces twisted around a fountain pond filled with ornamental fishes located behind the main hall.

3.Hainan Assembly Hall, 10 Tran Phu street  (free entrance)
Built in 1851 by the overseas Chinese of Hainan, (China) who were living in Hoi An as a place to socialize, serve the community and to worship their ancestors. It was later used also as a memorial in homage to the 108 Hainan merchants who were mistakenly killed as pirates by Emperor Tu Duc's navy on 16th July 1851. Locals who are suffering from injustice or bad luck will come here to pray or to obtain blessings.  

Upon entering the entrance (picture above) is an open garden courtyard leading to the main hall dedicated to the 108 Hainan merchants after they were vindicated by Emperor Tu Duc as deities to be worshiped. Founders of the Haninan assembly hall are honoured on the right side of the hall while the God of Wealth is worshiped on the left side. 

4. Trieu Chau/Teochew Assembly Hall, 157 Nguyen Duy Hieu street
Built in 1845 by the overseas Chinese from Trieu Chau, (China) who were living in Hoi An as a place to socialize, serve the community and to perform religious activities. In those days, people used to come to pray at night for their wishes to come true. 
  
A short walk from the main gate (picture above) leads to a second entrance whose roof tops were ornate with interesting colourful mosaic, porcelain dioramas and glazed terracotta figurines and features depicting folklore legends and mythology. Perhaps the most memorable part of this assembly hall. Don't forget to look up! *WoOW*

And words cannot describe the subtle beauty of these three-dimensional figurative exquisitely hand carved wooden doors, a remarkable trait of Teochew architecture.

The main hall is dedicated to General Phuc Ba, the God of Wind and Waves. The other two sides are for worshiping The God of Wealth and Luck. Descendants of the Teochew clan will gather here on 1st-15th days of a lunar new year to worship their ancestors. 

5. Traditional Handicraft Workshop, 9 Nguyen Thai Hoc street 
A more than 200 years old trading house showcasing the rich and creative talents of Vietnamese in the field of performing arts and craftsmanship. A wide variety of handicrafts and souvenir items are for sale at the backyard.   


Tourists orientated cultural show of traditional music, folk dance and performances are shown twice daily at 10:15 am and 15:15 pm. Something not to be missed out!

Glad that my parents enjoyed the folklore dance performance. You don't have to know the story line to enjoy the show! They tell stories with their graceful body movements and dramatic facial expressions. Come early to grab a stool if you don't want to stand at the back. You might not even have a place to stand if there is a big tour group!!

Besides traditional cultural performances, tourists get a glimpse into Vietnamese traditional arts and crafts in the back yard. Watching a all-by-hand lantern making process can be a totally absorbing experience well worth your time. 

And watching young skillful artisans hand craved a block of lifeless wood into a piece of lively profound sculpture can make your jaws dropped too! *Aww, now WHERE's my jaws?*

6. Tan Ky House, 101 Nguyen Thai Hoc street
Built by Minh Huong, a Chinese merchant from China who came to Hoi An to trade in the 17th century. It has been beautifully preserved and had went through seven generations till present day. The name Tan Ky meaning 'Progress shop' was given by the second generation wishing for a prosperous business. It used to be a shop selling cinnamon, silk, tea and medicines derived from rare animals' bones.

This Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese combination architectural house has 4 small rooms packed with beautiful antiques. One room is used for welcoming Chinese merchants while the others are a living room, a courtyard and a bedroom. Visitors can enter the three rooms except the bedroom. There is a souvenir shop at the backyard and a back door opens onto Bach Dang street and Thu Bon river. 

NOTE: 
1. Japanese Bridge- Ticket is needed to enter/cross the bridge.  

2. Fujian Assembly Hall- Probably spend more time here than the other assembly halls.

3. Hainan Assembly Hall- Free entrance. So just take a free look!

4. Teochew Assembly Hall- Don't forget to look at the rooftop of the second entrance. 

5. Traditional Handicraft Workshop- Don't miss the traditional cultural show. Tipping is on one's own free will. 

6. Tan Ky House- Look for a free guide (in the house) if you want a detail of the house. 

7. Take time to have a good look at the uniqueness of each different historical sites.  

8. Unless you have difficulty walking, DO NOT TAKE THE CYCLO - if you stay too long in one place, the cyclo man will get mad or demand you to pay more! 

For a brief introduction of all the historical sites, check this out: http://tropicallulu.blogspot.com/2013/07/hoi-old-town-heritage-sites.html


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