Hanoi: Perfume Pagoda 河內:香佛塔之旅

The Perfume Pagoda (Chua Huong) is not just one pagoda, but a complex of Buddhist temples and pagodas scattered in and on Perfume Mountain (Huong Son) in Ha Tay province, 75km southwest of Hanoi. So called Perfume Pagoda not because they emit perfume but the sweet scents of blooming blossoms that filled the air during spring.

It is one of the most religious sites of Vietnam, where hundreds of thousands of pilgrims from all over Vietnam make a pilgrimage to come and pray between the first and third lunar months of each year, celebrated as the longest festival of Vietnam - The Perfume Pagoda Festival. Other time of the year, it remained as one of the best seller tourist destination for foreigners and other local Vietnamese tourists. 

The Perfume Pagoda tour was not in our plan. However, we got attracted by this brochure, and so we took the tour. (without any idea what Perfume pagoda is all about!)

Two hours drive from Hanoi in a minibus. Reached Yen Wharf at 11am. Transferred to an iron sampan with plastic chairs and hand paddled by local ladies, young and elderly. 

We saw this red red iron bridge just the way it was printed on the brochure, but not those pretty red red flowers. - Sigh.. Spring's over! 

Gliding down the poetic Yen Stream with scenic view of mountains, hidden villages, paddy farms, duckies swimming in enclosed ponds, water lilies, morning glory and trees draping out over the water of the meandering stream.

It was peaceful and serene with only the smoothing sound of water splashing as the boat lady paddled in steady strokes. Occasionally, came lovely dragonflies dipping their tails in the water. Oh, it would be so romantic if only he was by my side!! 

The boating journey seem endless. It was then made enjoyable when the rowers started to overtake each other like having a national boat race till we reached Thien Tru pier, stationed at the base of Perfume Mountain.

Check if your tour price is inclusive of the cable car rides. If not, you can either buy the ticket on the spot or climb hundreds of steep steps up which required a certain level of fitness and a healthy heart. We chose to walk up to have a cultural 'pilgrimage feel' but purchase a cable car ticket (US$5) for the return trip for body energy saving option.

The trek uphill were steps of ancient stones that was of thousands years old; slippery at times. Although tiring but you could pause for breath catching moments while admiring breathtaking views of the surrounding sceneries, smaller pagodas and local farmers' daily life among the hills and valleys. Or pause for the lines of stalls that have many interesting things for sale, besides food, drinks and souvenirs.

Huong Tich Pagoda (Pagoda of the Perfume Vestige) is the most popular pagoda set in a natural cave. Trekking for about an hour to the top of the mountain to reach this gate, believed to be the dragon's mouth. Take a deep breath, dry my sweat first...

Then taking a steady steep 120 steps descending into the Inner temple which lies deep within the cave. The huge column of stalactite in the middle of the entrance is called 'Dun Gạo' meaning Rice Stack.

Legend has said that a pilgrimage to Huong Pagoda will bring luck, prosperity, health and happiness. And if you're single, catch 3 drops of water from a stalactite in your hand and your true love will come soon. Why didn't they tell me earlier? I would have brought an empty bottle, collect the water and share it with all my single friends!

Various altars honouring different deities for worship, prayers or for a special wish request. Take note that burning of incense is strongly prohibited.

The Inner Temple which is the center of the Perfume Pagoda and also a sacred place as legend had it that the Goddess of Mercy once stayed here to help human souls.

Many pilgrims also come here to get blessings from the stalactites and stalagmites which were worn smooth after years of rubbing. They even have names like Gold Tree, Silver Tree, Heaps of Coins, Baskets of Silkworms from the shapes they resembled and are sought after by pilgrims for special purposes. I don't know the name of this one nor its power but it was really smooth, cooling and had a heavenly calming effect. 

Luckily, we took the cable car to get down. I don't think i could make it on foot for my feet and 'body batteries' had gone flat! And to our amazement, the magnificent views of the whole pagoda area, mountains and valleys were stunning with a double WOW!

Lunch was Vietnamese country-side style dishes at a restaurant. Hungry and exhausted, lunch seemed to be the most delicious ever!!  

The tour continued with a visit to Thien Chu Pagoda (Pagoda leading to Heaven) to admire the ancient architectural structure of the Le Dynasty dated back to 15th century. Thien Chu is the main pagoda of the Perfume Pagoda, embedded within mountains and hills.

The three storey bell tower of Thien Chu Pagoda, dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy.

Tam Quan gate at Thien Chu Pagoda. 

The return trip back to Yen Wharf in the same boat along the same stream with the same sceneries and the same boat lady! So i just closed my eyes and let time meandering slowly down the stream....    

NOTE:

1. Take this tour as an experience. Don't expect too much and be tolerant. 

2. Best time to go is during the festival season for a truly unforgettable cultural  experience but can be overly-crowded with at least 100,000 pilgrims!

3. No skimpy outfit for religious sites.

4. Sitting in the iron boat for 2 hours (to and fro) can be unbearable hot or a little uncomfortable, bring whatever you need. (and if it rained!)

5. Cable cars might not operate due to little number of tourists (especially during low seasons)

6. Empty your bowels before the boat trips. (about an hour per trip)

7. Tip the boat lady on the return trip after getting off from the boat, or else she will come running after you. (i wonder how much were they paid when i noticed the boat ticket for a round trip was only VND35,000/RM5.10 per person)  

Mystical Halong Bay 神奇的下龙湾之旅

Halong Bay 下龙湾 (literally "descending dragon bay") is voted a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site in 1994. The most iconic tourist destination located in Quang Ninh province in north eastern Vietnam, about 170km east of Hanoi.

Mystical Halong Bay has 1,969 magnificent limestone monoliths islands, formed some 500 million years ago rising from the clear emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin in the east Vietnam Sea. And there are 775 islets within the core of the bay.

According to legend, a long time ago, Jade Emperor sent Mother Dragon and her children to help the Vietnamese who had just started to establish their country but were about to be attack by foreign invaders. The Dragons descended in flocks from the sky, spatting out pearls which changed into stone islands once they touched the water; forming firmed citadels and smashing the enemies' vessels. After the invaders left, Mother dragon and her children did not return to heaven but remain to live in the peaceful Halong Bay.

We took a one day tour. Arrived at Bai Chay Wharf at noon after 4 hours ride from Hanoi.

Set off to cruise and explore the mazes of Halong bay in a dragon tourist boat.

Fleets of tourist boats gliding further into the tranquility of Halong bay.

The Beauty of the Bay took my breath away. Together with a cloud resembling a descending dragon with a pearl in its mouth hovering in the sky was one in a million shot! Clouds are considered Bringers of Good News. Dragons are symbols of Good Fortune. 

 

After the dragon, came the Eagles' greetings: 

"Have A NiCe DaY '.' "  

Another one in a million shot that lifted my spirit sky high!

Enchanting mountains and sea sceneries like a 3D Chinese 'shan shui' (山水) painting.  And there in the mountains, I could see beautiful Chinese fairies singing and dancing gracefully to the rhythm of heavenly melodies..

A community of 1,600 local people live in four fishing villages for generations in floating houses anchored in sheltered coves nestled at the base of tall mountainous islands.

One of the village school that floats on plastic barrels. Children have  primary education here, after which, they will continue their secondary education on the mainland.

Stop at a floating fish farm. Check if your tour price is inclusive of seafood which you may pick from the fish farm or if not, purchase on the spot if you want a fresh seafood lunch. Otherwise, a simple Vietnamese lunch (5 dishes to be shared with 6 person per table) is served on the tourist boat. After lunch, it was time for further exploration.

Boating or Kayaking? Your choice. Check if your tour price is inclusive of any of these rides or if not, pay at the spot if want to explore further. Otherwise, you can just remain on board the tourist boat at your own leisure. 

One of the hollow island with a hidden lagoon inside - Heaven's Lagoon is accessible by smaller boats or kayaks through the tunnel. (during low tide only)

Heaven's Lagoon: Cool, Calm, Silence, 

Peaceful like heaven, perhaps?

Upon exiting the Heaven's Lagoon, bedazzled by a spectacular row of towering limestone mountains, beautified by lush vegetation and characterized by jagged and sheer overhanging cliffs. My jaws dropped slightly whilst blinking in dumbfounded silence! And he was clicking non-stop with his Canon in different shooting angles.

Boat vendors selling fruits, drinks and snacks at the docking platform. We embarked back to the tourist boat to continue our journey of more discoveries. 

Passing the famous Fighting Cocks Rocks. Some called them The Kissing Rocks. So are they fighting or kissing? Depending on one's perception and mood of the day!

I've no idea what's the name of this rock. 

Look like a baby gorilla looking out for his mum.

Disembarked from the tourist boat, climb a fleet of wooden stairs, then enter a narrow passage way into a 130m magnificent Thien Cung cave (天宮洞窟 Heaven Palace cave) where the legendary tale of a beautiful lady named May and the Dragon prince held their wedding for 7 days and 7 nights. It was believed that the wedding scenes were fossilized in the grotto. All you need is the power of visualization to make them come alive!

The passage way to heaven? 

Or just me and my imagination?

Hang Dau Go (Wooden Stakes Caves) is the largest grotto in Ha Long area. It has 3 large chambers with  thousands of stalactites and stalagmites coloured by hundreds of neon lights to illustrate the legendary tales made up by the collection of rock formations.

Back to the tourist boat. So long, Halong Bay! 

A truly mystical destination that let you lost your sense of time.
And be charmed into a spiritual magical world..

  

Note:

1. Cruise itinerary and schedule may change due to weather and operations conditions.

2. There are many tour packages options from a day trip to a 4D3N tour with numerous junk selections (for overnight stay only). It is advisable to choose a reliable tour agency with legal junks that meet safety standards.

3. For day trip tour, the tourist boats are the same. The price vary in terms of meal variations and boat/kayak options. 

4. Passport may be taken or personal particulars required before embarkation on the tourist boat.  

5. The tours are relatively safe. However, it does not mean it comes without its fair share of risks. Purchase travel insurance for a worry-free holiday!  

Hanoi: Hoan Kiem Lake 河內还剑湖散散步

Known in the past as Luc Thuy Lake meaning Green Water Lake, because the water was forever green. It was renamed Hoan Kiem Lake/Ho Guom meaning Lake of the Restored/Returned Sword (or Sword Lake for short) after a legend; although related in different versions but were all associated with the emperor, the turtle and the sword.

Here's a simple version: In 1418, Emperor Le Loi was having a hard time fighting against or the invaders from the Chinese Ming dynasty. One day while he was by the lake, a giant golden turtle named Kim Qui appeared to lent him a magic sword that led him to a glorious victory. When he went to the lake again, Kim Qui appeared. The sword flew off from the Emperor's hand back to the turtle's mouth and submerged into the lake with a thunder clap and lightning flashing in the sky. 

Located in the center of the city of Hanoi and within walking distance from the Old Quarter. It's a local's favourite spot for exercising, strolling, socialising, dating and relaxing. One of the famous tourist destinations that should not be miss when in Hanoi.  

The first gate with two big red Chinese wordings of 福 meaning happiness on the right and 祿 meaning prosperity on the left together with a series of parallel Chinese writings.

The second gate with a Vietnamese dragon on the right and a tiger on the left. Dragons and tigers are symbols of stability according to Feng Shui theory. 

Huc Bridge or Rising Sun Bridge is a red wooden bridge built in an arched shaped of a sickle moon or an ivory comb. 

The bridge is a popular spot for outdoor wedding photography. It seems that this young Vietnamese couple is a match made in heaven for their faces look so much alike!

Crossing the red bridge towards the end is the Ngoc Son Temple 玉山寺 (Jade Mountain Temple ) sitting on an islet at the north end of the lake dated back to 1225 which was initially called Ngoc Son Pagoda. It has a main temple with two inter-linked sub-temples.  

With a dragon horse carrying eight I-ching of eight elements and a yin-yang mirror to ward off evil spirits on the right side of the entrance gate. On the left side is a turtle carrying a book and a sword on its back indicating knowledge and military strength. Above is a small room with round window called Moon Gazing Pavilion.

The temple is open daily from 7:30am-6pm with an entrance fee of VD20,000/RM2.90. It also serves as a small museum with relics from different historical eras, including stele writing and 1,156 valuable carved wooden blocks for printing books. There is also a specimen of a rare giant turtle 2.1m long, 1.2m wide and a weight of 250 kilo, It was believed to be 500 years old when it was found in 1967.

The three storey Turtle Tower in the middle of the lake is to remind the Vietnamese of the Giant Golden Turtle of his great assistance. There are turtles still living in the lake. To catch a glimpse of a giant turtle's head rising above the water is considered extremely lucky and be blessed with a good life.

Looking out for turtles? 

The serene lakeside ringed by a weeping willow tree made it a perfect dating spot. 

 A lovely romantic shot i caught!